Paris resto reviews from SF's own Tablehopper...

We get weekly emails from tablehopper.com, a great site authored by Marcia Gagliardi, with a big focus on San Francisco.  However, she recently ate and walked her way through Paris, and posted this:  http://www.tablehopper.com/jetsetter/paris-france/index.php. Good reading and great suggestions.

One resto she ate at, Cafe Charlot, is in our hood --- and we're glad she liked it. As we've said on earlier posts, Rue de Bretagne is a great street for food and people watching. BTW, we completely agree with Marcia that the best macarons are at Pierre Hermes (in the 6th and the 1st)...we prefer them to Laduree, though it's convenient that Laduree has an outlet in the AirFrance terminal at Charles de Gaulle!

Another great restaurant review on ParisUpdate

Paris Update is a great on-line newsletter, one of several that I follow to keep tabs on happenings in Paris during those long stretches of being away. Check it out at: http://www.paris-update.com.

Paris Update is also on Facebook, and often has great restaurant reviews, like the most recent one from Marie Tatin on a nearby Italian resto on the Fauborg St. Antoine. Even the most ardent francophile needs to branch out occasionally...so when you're in the mood for Italian, try this one and tell me what you think:

Caffè dei Cioppi: 159, rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, 75011 Paris. Tel.: 0143461014. Métro: Faidherbe Chaligny or Ledru Rollin. Nearest Vélib station: Crozatier. Open Monday-Tuesday for lunch only, Wednesday-Friday for lunch and dinner. A la carte: €30-€40.

Other Paris food blogs I like...

Most of these folks either live in Paris or get to go there more often than I do...and they definitely get to eat out more. I find their blogs to be a fun read and give me ideas on what to try when I do get to Paris.

Esme Vos: http://www.mapplr.com/2008/07/08/mapplrs-favorite-restaurants-and-cafes-in-paris/

David Lebovitz (former pastry chef at Le Panisse in Berkeley, CA): http://www.davidlebovitz.com/paris/ also LOVE his book "The Sweet Life in Paris"…highly recommended. David also has a Facebook page...he's fun to follow.

Clotilde Dusoulier: http://chocolateandzucchini.com/. She also has a great cookbook of the same name...have made and enjoyed several recipes from it.

John Talbott: http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/john_talbotts_paris/. Great restaurant reviews

the incomparable Patricia Wells: http://www.patriciawells.com/paris/ptables-bistros.htm

Mi-Va-Mi on rue des Rosiers

Okay, I committed heresy, and went across from L'As du Falafel to Mi-Va-Mi. Definitely less frenetic and harried, but next time I'll return to L'As du Falafel. I had their "royal" platter so I could taste a lot ---falafel, hummus, cabbage salad, broiled eggplant ---but, overall, it was disappointing. The falafels were neither as light and crispy nor as flavorful as the ones on the other side of the street, and the hummus had little flavor. I'd read raves in one of my favorite Paris food blogs about Mi-Va-Mi, but don't agree at all that it beats L'As du Falafel.

revisiting three old favorites...

Sadly, I'm back in San Francisco. But, in an orgy of fine dining, we ate at Le Square Trousseau, Chez Janou and L'Itineraire in our last three nights in Paris (plus a falafel lunch at Mi-Va-Mi - see my next post). And, unbelievably, I came back to SF at the same weight I left it! It's all that walking...

We met San Francisco friends at L'Itineraire for a birthday celebration. The chef's wife usually holds down the front of the house, but she was absent, so the welcome was not quite as warm as it has been in the past. I'm realizing why blogs have to be done immediately after one eats...as the specifics fade. Suffice it to say that the price is still 3 courses for under 40 Euros, the entrees creative and yummy, and the desserts sparkling. The main courses, tho, disappointed a bit...the beef which two of our party had was not as flavorful as it's been in the past, and my slow roasted veal was tremendously fatty. I would have thought that a "24 hour" braise would have rendered most of the fat, but not in this case. The service was also not as on point as it has been in the past...with both the food and service maybe showing some early vacation doldrums (though it was not quite August). I'll give it another try, as I love the room --but this meal was not as fabulous as others have been.

Chez Janou, on the other hand, hasn't changed a bit...it's lively and loud, with really good food and reasonably priced wines. There were 6 of us, and we had a side table, which protects those on the inside from the frequent comings and goings. I had a simple salad with chevre to start, followed by the delicious mussel gratinee; also got to taste the brandade, gazpacho, and ratatouille (all good), and finished, of course, with a sinfully big heap of the chocolate mousse.

On our final nite, we went with a close friend to Le Square Trousseau. The waiters here seemed friendlier than ever, and the room was filled with locals. We continued our gazpacho tasting (from Paris to Barcelona and back), and then I followed it up with a beautiful carpaccio. Fortunately, C. ordered the tartare, so I got to munch on what I think are some of Paris' best pommes frites. The waiter, who flirted shamelessly with our French friend, then brought us some sweet chocolate nibbles at the end with our cafe. It was a great last meal...and definitely keeps this bistro on the top of my list.

Another find in the 12th

Who knew? Just two blocks from an old favorite, Le Square Trousseau, at 11 Place d'Aligre is a gem of a restaurant, La Table d'Aligre (phone - 01.43.07.84.88; email - cyr75@wanadoo.fr). We'd never seen it, even though it's been around for over 10 years. It's a small restaurant---not fancy, but very comfortable.

The cuisine is based on what is fresh from the market across the street, and the cooking creative. It is also very affordable; a full prix fixe (entree, plat, and dessert) is just 29 Euros at dinner, and one can adjust that downward if you want just two courses. The entrees were brilliant; mine was shredded radish with small marinated (ceviche-style) shrimp in a light as air sauce. One dinner companion ordered a gorgeous entree of grilled bread on top of which was a fresh fava spread and, in essence, a scrambled egg...sounds a bit odd on the menu, but the result is divine. The third entree was a special salad of the evening, best described as a deconstructed ratatouille on a bed of mixed lettuces.

The plats were just as good, though the three of us all ordered the same thing, so cannot report on anything but the calamar-supions with two sauces, served with a golden orzo-like pasta. The squid came two ways in two separate little casseroles; baby squid in a garlic-parsley sauce and tender sliced squid bodies in a tomato sauce, enriched with the flavor of crustacean shells.  Yum. And, even though it's summer and we had seafood, we washed it all down with a very reasonably priced Gigondas, one of our favorite wines.

desserts didn't disappoint either. Menelik, a recipe from the chef's mother, was a moist and rich chocolate cake layered with chocolate mouse and served with coffee granita. We also tasted the fresh peach "tiramisu," sprinkled lightly with bits of sugared flower petals, and a decadent cherry cloufati.

We'll definitely return...great ingredients, great cooking, friendly staff...

a new find in the 12th...

A summer nite and par usual, we found ourselves walking out the Faubourg St. Antoine from the Bastille. Past Ledru-Rollin and then the Square Trousseau and its namesake restaurant, but before the Hospital St. Antoine is rue des Citeaux. At #43, a few doors down on the right, is L'Ebauchoir (01.43.42.29.31). A few tables on the sidewalk, a long narrow room with a small bar at the front. In other words, a typical bistro, but not with typical food. We'd seen this mentioned in someone else's list, but knew nothing about it except it sounded interesting -- and it was. We enjoyed our meal immensely, though are being surprised at how French portions seem to be growing to near American-sized these days---not a good turn of events. For Cheryl, sadly, the marinated sardines had run out. Instead, she ordered a beautiful tartare of bluefish, crusted with sesame. Meanwhile, I ordered a salad of fresh goat cheese on a bed of peppers and arugula. Perfect.

For our plats, we both ordered the translucent cabillaud (cod),  perfectly braised. It was topped with slivers of chorizo, on a bed of fresh petit peas and nestled between two torpedos of mashed potatoes. A dry but full bodied rose, very reasonably priced, kept us company thru the meal.

Sadly, we were too full for dessert (silly us), but watched the next table over devour a whole terrine of what the chef calls a terrine of Gateau de riz Grand-mère.  If only I'd been bold enough to ask for a taste!  After the fact, I found their web site...http://www.lebauchoir.com/. Had I found it earlier we would have gone sooner!

An introduction...

Have thought about doing a blog on Paris restaurants and other tidbits for a while...we travel there at least twice a year from our home in San Francisco, and, just as in SF, we're always searching for great food. Up until now I just had a running list of restaurants (restos, for short) and Paris food blogs that I sent to any of our friends and associates traveling to Paris. But, that format has limits, so I thought I'd try to blog instead...I'm sure you all in the blogosphere will let me know how that goes!

Here's some of the restaurants we have been to and liked. You'll see it's far from an exhaustive list...nor is it a surprise to anyone that it is long in restos in and around our apartment in the 3rd arrondisement (Le Marais), but I've added a few others, too. We seem particularly attracted to bistros in the 11th and 12th arrondisement, somewhere in the vicinity of the Marche d'Aligre -- they're all within easy walking distance from our flat, and the walk always sharpens the appetite before a meal, and eases the full stomach after one! These are not in any particular order:

Chez Janou (01.42.72.28.41) 32, rue Roger Verlomme (Provençal, cool and loud—around the corner from our apartment) – our go to place with friends, for parties – we eat there often. Very popular in neighborhood and seems to have been somewhat “discovered” though still more French than tourists. Drop by or call to make reservations…don’t try to go at dinner without! The grilled mussel entree is a favorite as is the tomato tarte in season. Anything with St. Nectaire or chevre. For the plats, duck is a big favorite. And don’t think of having anything else but the chocolate mousse for dessert! Save room.

Le Petit Marche 9 rue de Béarn (just outside the arches of the Place des Vosges…asian influenced, very very good food and lots of fun. Always busy, food can be a bit uneven but generally above average. Like the chinoise chicken salad and anything with tuna. Noisy, nice staff.

Bofinger (01.42.72.87.82) 7 rue de la Bastille Bofinger is a big, old, famous brasserie – food is good, not great…best are the oysters/shellfish. Need to sit with a view of the stained glass dome ---great belle époque interior. Has a baby brother resto across the street (Petit Bofinger) with better prices but not the same ambience.

Le Loir dans La Theiere 3 rue de Rosiers--- Best lunch/brunch in the Marais….amazing savory and sweet pies. A very special place…doesn’t take reservations, and sometimes wait can be long, but it's completely worth it. My favorite is the goat cheese/leek tart and any of the fruity sweet ones. The lemon meringue is not to be believed…also has nice salads and a daily special. Closes in late afternoon.

L’As du Fallafel 01.48.87.63.60 34 rue des Rosiers (known as one of best falafels in world). Can do sit down or take out. I prefer sitting in…chaotic but easier to eat. And, particularly if you're seated in the backroom, you could be in Tel Aviv - except for the French being spoken in addition to the Hebrew. I like the special falafel with eggplant, hot sauce, and other goodies in it. Less excited about topping it with pommes frites, though many seem to do so. Somehow adding french fries to a falafel is just not right. No matter what, these are yummy and very filling—plan accordingly. Also, not open on Friday nite/Saturday till sundown.

Georges (01.44.78.47.99) 19 rue Beaubourg. George is perched on top of the Centre Pompidou, and boasts an amazing view. The food is good, not great, and sometimes it is too too chic for its own good. But we've had wonderful parties and celebrations there...Like it for lunch also…a great place to bring folks new to Paris so they can get the view. And the Pompidou always has something interesting showing.

Bar des Huitres 33 boulevard Beaumarchais …it's one of several...have been at one in the 6th, too, but that doesn't take away from the fact it serves fabulous shellfish. The oysters are a particular favorite, with lots of choices of size and origin. With a glass of sancerre or champagne, divine.

Café du Musee – (01 42 72 96 17) 49 rue de Turenne, on the corner of rue St. Gilles and rue des Turennes…we knew it first as a place near our apartment that made great café crèmes (harder to find than you would think), but then tried it for dinner – yum. Very classic French bistro, well priced. Has a downstairs room, arched ceilings, brick, the whole thing. Has now been written up (alas), so crowded at night. Lunch is a good option, though. Lovely man runs it in the am and through lunch. Once sent us down the street to the Boulangerie du Marais --told us their croissants were better than what he had run out of! So we bought one for him, too.

Le Square Trousseau - (01 43 43 06 00) 1 rue Antoine Vollon in the 12^th just off Faubourg St. Antoine. Another standby for us…go at least once for lunch or dinner nearly every trip to Paris. Was charmed to see its banquette be the backdrop for one of the vignettes in the 2005 film Paris, je t'aime. Big portions so be forewarned. Very well prepared bistro food; pommes frites and puree (mashed potatos) rate high. On pretty little square (hence the name) just 2 blocks from Marche d’Aligre, one of our very favorite Paris markets (and open every day). Now have a chocolate mousse like Chez Janou, but not quite as good...go for other desserts.

Le Chauteaubriand 129 avenue Parmentier— in the 11^th. No menu, just chef’s choices for an incredible meal. The chef is Basque, and you just have to trust him. A very special place, but since it's been "discovered" by the NY Times and others it's hard to get into.

Itineraire, (1.46.33.60.11) 5 rue Pontoise 75005. On my list because I first ate Sylvan's food when he had a tiny place in the 11th (Au Temps au Temps). He and his wife moved the restaurant to the 5th a few years ago, and while the room is larger and more elegant, the food has stayed just as good, if not better. The 3 course prix fixe costs less than 35 euros, and the food is creative without resorting to stereotypes or losing its soul. Reservations are a must. Love love this place, even after the NY Times wrote it up, bringing more tourists. Food is great, the hosts warm, the room welcoming…fun for all the time or for a special occasion.