An Elegant Spot in the Neighborhood

We've walked by Le Carré des Vosges a million times (more or less), but haven't ever stopped. But, one night cruising Paris's Open Table-like site, LaFourchette.com, I noticed that Le Carré des Vosges had great ratings and reviews, several diners remarking on the interesting twists the Japanese chef added to the French menu. So I made a reservation on-line, and off we went later that nite.

It's a very pretty room - and, importantly, had air conditioning as the outside temp was still in the low 90s!  From what I've learned, the original Le Carré des Vosges was an elegant spot; this newer iteration shows some of the bones of the original decor, but has a more casual air about it. The casualness was also evident by the warm greeting of the host/waiter/sommelier. He spoke great English but humored us by tolerating our bad French. He was charming and knowledgeable, steering us to a 2011 Sancerre from Domain Girault to start. He then brought us a tasty amuse bouche, a small cup of gazpacho, sweetened with watermelon and spiced with Tabasco, coriander, and anise. A promising and interesting start.

The menu was moderately priced, and offered a range of choices. I started with an entree titled Le Poulpe, described as a "press" of red peppers and eggplant, with octopus confit and tapenade (14 Euros). The red pepper and eggplant caviar came pressed around a cucumber core, and surrounded by dime-sized bites of very tender octopus. Two swaths, one of pesto and the other the olive tapenade added depth, while arugula and watercress added color and texture. Meanwhile, Cheryl's entree, billed simply as a "la tomate-mozza," was a great creative twist on this classic caprese, and was part of the well-priced (39 Euros) three course prix fixe menu. Generous slices of ripe heirloom tomatoes were perched on and under a light mozzarella foam , scented with fennel - creating an almost soup-like texture to the dish. Very yummy.

I ordered a second entree for my main dish, thinking I would be eating relatively lightly that evening. Titled "le poulet fermier," it was described as a ballotine, with foie gras and a pineapple gelee, and priced at 16 Euros. Okay, thinking anything with foie gras is going to be light was a mistake - but how could I have predicted the substantial amount in the ballotine. And, though I was skeptical of the pineapple gelee, it was done beautifully, and married well with the chicken and foie gras. Overall, this was an elegant and well executed dish - much more than I'd expected on many levels.

Cheryl continued with the prix fixe, ordering the "cochon." This was perfectly roasted pork, perhaps done sous vide, on a bed of haricots vert,and baby potatoes. Grilled tomatoes completed the plate, topped with bread crumbs. We were surprised by the generous portion that included a meaty rib, making Cheryl's night!

Having had ice cream from our favorite place, Grom, earlier in the day, we passed on desserts, though I was sorely tempted by the roasted white peach. Overall, we thought the food was great - well sourced ingredients, clear expertise in the kitchen, and an interesting mix of techniques and spices. We'll definitely go back. Chez Janou and Cave St. Gilles are wonderful to have so close to our apartment- but sometime a touch of elegance is a welcome respite, particularly when it's both nearby and affordable.

Le Carré des Vosges
15 rue Saint Gilles 75003
Phone: 01 42 71 22 21
Web:  www.lecarredesvosges.fr

A Lovely Night at Verjus

With our nephew (and great photographer) and his wife, and in celebration of Cheryl’s upcoming big birthday, we ate at Verjus on a very warm Monday nite in July. The restaurant, tucked behind the Palais Royal, was about 2/3 full, and heavily American – which was not the norm of most places we ate this trip – but that’s also what happens when Paris restaurants get written up in the NY Times.

I’ve previously written about Braden and Laura, the talented couple from Seattle behind, first, Hidden Kitchen, and now Verjus, its adjoining wine bar, and a newly launched lunchtime sandwich shop. It’s been fun to watch Braden develop as a chef – each time we eat his food we’re more impressed than the last. And this was no exception. What I found most interesting is that not only hasn't he lost his Pacific Northwest roots – but is celebrating it. Verjus' web site unabashedly bills it as "New American"  cuisine, though based on using well-sourced and pristine French ingredients.

The restaurant offers an eight course fixed price tasting menu at 60 Euros (with a cheese course extra, and wine pairings (by Laura) at an additional 40 Euros. We went whole hog with the wine pairings, as they all looked so interesting – and when you’re doing a splurge, why not? I don’t do these kinds of meals that much as I’m a lightweight – by the time we get to the meat courses, I’m usually over the top. Perhaps I need to learn to pace myself better – and, even with small portions, leave more on my plate. But, the earlier dishes are usually the most interesting to me, making that strategy difficult to follow. Ah, how I must sacrifice in the name of gastronomic experiences!

At Verjus, the meal began with a lovely glass of Domaine Labet, a cremant from the Jura, with an amuse-bouche that combined a touch of tomatos, onion, feta, and a teensy garlic crouton. 

The second course was a fabulous sashimi of sorts, made with skipjack, radish, lime, cilantro, and corn. This was followed by lovely little dumplings – somewhere between very light matzo balls and gnocchi, made of buffalo milk and ricotta, in a lemon sauce accented with wild herbs, peas, heirloom carrots, and hazelnuts. The second wine, previously unknown to us, was a 2011Rousette de Savoie from Chateau de Merande. 

Fortunately, the meal was well paced, as I was already starting to feel that dreaded “full” sensation…but I shouldered on and was rewarded with my favorite dish of the night – one that truly reflected an American chef in Paris, melding great local ingredients and technique with a Pacific coast sensibility. It came in the form of a seared trout, with spicy chiles, chanterelles a bit of guanciale, sitting on an aromatic roasted corn soup.  Yum. And, a 1999 white burgundy from Domaine Pierre Morey was lovely – perhaps my favorite of the night.

As you might guess, we’re now heading into the poultry/red meat portions of the tasting menu.  The fifth course was seared slices of duck, resting along side a petite bed of celery root, red cabbage, orange, and rye. 

It was very good, particularly the way the rye brought the dish together --- but, as a whole, it seemed out of place – it belonged on a fall/winter menu, not one in the heat of the summer.  The duck was followed by a grilled hanger steak. 

While not usually my favorite cut of beef in Paris (it’s often tough), here it was meltingly tender, paired with new potatoes, baby spinach and other little vegies, horseradish, and an interesting cured egg yolk.  If Verjus had an ala carte menu, this is a dish I would go for every time..  A nice, if not exciting, Domaine  Vacheron Sancerre (2011) was poured with the duck, and a very good 2012 Corbieres (Domaine les Promosses de la Terre) with the beef.

At this point of a tasting menu, I don’t always trust my palate – but I do know I really loved the lemon polenta cake with blueberries, greek yogurt, and honey. Again, this dish evoked both French and American sensibilities and flavors at the same time. 

The second dessert was served at the same time – a practice I’m not fond of….but I guess it lets diners pick and choose their sweets. Anyway, it was an espresso panna cotta with cherries, almonds, and a fab little almond shortbread. Everyone at the table liked the panna cotta but me – I thought it was short on flavor and a bit too gelatinous ---but that was just me – everyone else scooped up every bite.

Overall, it was a lovely evening, though I was a bit disappointed that even though I had told them ahead of time, they’d forgotten it was Cheryl’s birthday and didn’t add a sparkler or two to her dessert. Cheryl, on the other hand, was just as glad to have her birthday not be so publicly announced! We’ll return to Verjus – probably not every trip to Paris, but on a regular basis to see how it evolves. And we'll definitely be dropping by the wine bar whenever we're in the vicinity.

Verjus

52, rue de Richelieu

Phone:  01.42.97.54.40

Email:  verjusparis@gmail.com

 

Le Coquillage in Brittany - the best meals ever!

 

On most of our trips to Paris to take care of our apartment, we take a couple of days and travel to new places in France. As this blog is designed to help friends, family, and clients find interesting places to eat in Paris, I don’t usually write about the food on our side trips.

But, I have to make an exception for some outrageously good food we had in Brittany, at the restaurant, Le Coquillage, at Olivier and Jane Roellinger’s Chateau Richeau. In fact, during the three days we were there, we might have eaten some of the best food we’ve ever had in our lives. And, while doing so, we got to stay in this gorgeous chateau, right on the edge of the bay of Mont. St. Michel. When I found this place on-line, I knew it had a good restaurant, but really didn’t understand what it meant that Chef Roellinger previously had a Michelin 3-star place in nearby Cancale, best known for his innovative fresh spice blends. The only three star we had ever eaten at was Anzak in San Sebastien, Spain – a whole bunch of years ago.  And, we’ve never eaten in a 3 star in Paris or anywhere else in France, for that matter.

Where to begin – let me tell you what happened when we arrived at the hotel about 2pm, after taking the TGV from Paris to Rennes, and then driving to Cancale. We asked at the hotel where we could get a bite of lunch, and were told that they were fully booked, but would be glad to bring us a plate or two to the salon (a beautiful room with comfortable seating overlooking the garden and the bay).  Our intent was to just eat lightly, as we had a reservation for dinner there that evening. We could see the two full dining rooms from the salon, and passed a gorgeous looking cheese tray on the way in.

Places were set for us and menus brought --- and we began to get an inkling of what we were in for when a trio of amuse-bouches were set in front of us, along with two kinds of Breton butter (one sweet, one spiced with cumin and other flavors) and several kinds of bread.  Knowing the area was famous for oysters, Cheryl had ordered a plate on the half shell, while I picked an entrée of warm oysters with artichokes and “curry Corsaire.”  Cheryl also asked if she could have a plate of some sort of mixed vegetables. OMG – Cheryl’s oysters - 9 of them – were plump and sweet, and each line of three was touched with a different seasoning. My plate was heavenly – the same great oysters, just warmed and in a frothy lightly curried broth with tender baby artichokes. Then two huge vegetable plates were set before us, with a mélange of baby vegetables, snow peas, more artichokes, and favas – in a lovely buttery sauce. Only later did we appreciate this was not on the menu – and they made it for us while in the midst of their lunch service to a full house!

In addition to two lovely breakfasts in the chateau’s sunroom, we ate dinner there twice – once in the sunroom and once in the adjacent and larger formal dining room. All the rooms have large windows with great views of the ever-changing tidal marsh, bay, and lush gardens. It’s an unapologetic fish and seafood menu, with one lonely lamb dish – not the place for someone who isn’t fond of fruits de mer. The three-course meal is prix fixe at 61 Euros, with an addition for the cheese course.A two course option is just 51 Euros.

And, all we can say is that there was not a wrong note in anything we ate over the three days! From the sea bream tartare to the special spices served with organic yogurt in the morning, every taste – from breads to condiments to desserts – were made with care and great expertise. Without knowing it, I hit the jackpot the first night by ordering the special  – not on the menu - a John Dory with “Retour des Indes” spices. I later found out this was one of Chef Roellinger’s most famous signature dishes from his 3-star place. It was heavenly, as were the cheeses that followed.  And, each night, a dessert tray is pulled alongside the table, filled with choices of freshly made ice cream, fruit tarts, macaroons, millefeuilles, and more.

But, the piece de resistance had to be the lobster we both chose as our main dish on Cheryl’s birthday night. We are both lobster lovers from way back, and have had many great ones – but none that matched what the chefs here did. The lobster was split, and the roe seasoned with a savory peppered mixture, then perfectly roasted in a fireplace. The claws, served separately, were steamed and cracked, served in a casserole over small new potatoes and baby carrots. A flavored lemony sauce was on the side – not necessary, but that didn’t mean we didn’t dip the lobster into it! We didn’t even mind the cloth bibs the dignified waiter tied on – way classier than the plastic ones we’ve gotten in the States.

Great and gracious service, a knowledgeable sommelier who found us well priced and tasty wines that matched our food perfectly – our meals at Les Coquillages were perfect – truly perfect. All told, given the quality of the food, the setting, and the professional service, this is a great value! It’s a bit far from Paris for a day trip – but we’ll definitely find the time to go again – for the food, the hospitality, and the stunning every-changing vistas of sea, beach, and sky.