On most of our trips to Paris to take care of our apartment,
we take a couple of days and travel to new places in France. As this blog is
designed to help friends, family, and clients find interesting places to eat in
Paris, I don’t usually write about the food on our side trips.
But, I have to make an exception for some outrageously good
food we had in Brittany, at the restaurant, Le Coquillage, at Olivier and
Jane Roellinger’s Chateau Richeau. In fact, during the three days we were
there, we might have eaten some of the best food we’ve ever had in our lives.
And, while doing so, we got to stay in this gorgeous chateau, right on the edge
of the bay of Mont. St. Michel. When I found this place on-line, I knew it had
a good restaurant, but really didn’t understand what it meant that Chef
Roellinger previously had a Michelin 3-star place in nearby Cancale, best known for his innovative fresh spice blends. The only three star we had ever eaten
at was Anzak in San Sebastien, Spain – a whole bunch of years ago. And, we’ve never eaten in a 3 star in
Paris or anywhere else in France, for that matter.
Where to begin – let me tell you what happened when we
arrived at the hotel about 2pm, after taking the TGV from Paris to Rennes, and
then driving to Cancale. We asked at the hotel where we could get a bite of
lunch, and were told that they were fully booked, but would be glad to bring us
a plate or two to the salon (a beautiful room with comfortable seating
overlooking the garden and the bay).
Our intent was to just eat lightly, as we had a reservation for dinner
there that evening. We could see the two full dining rooms from the salon, and
passed a gorgeous looking cheese tray on the way in.
Places were set for us and menus brought --- and we began to
get an inkling of what we were in for when a trio of amuse-bouches were set in front of us, along with two kinds of Breton butter (one sweet, one spiced with cumin and
other flavors) and several kinds of bread. Knowing the area was famous for oysters, Cheryl had ordered
a plate on the half shell, while I picked an entrée of warm oysters with
artichokes and “curry Corsaire.”
Cheryl also asked if she could have a plate of some sort of mixed
vegetables. OMG – Cheryl’s oysters - 9 of them – were plump and sweet, and each
line of three was touched with a different seasoning. My plate was heavenly –
the same great oysters, just warmed and in a frothy lightly curried broth with
tender baby artichokes. Then two huge vegetable plates were set before us, with
a mélange of baby vegetables, snow peas, more artichokes, and favas – in a
lovely buttery sauce. Only later did we appreciate this was not on the menu –
and they made it for us while in the midst of their lunch service to a full
house!
In addition to two lovely breakfasts in the chateau’s
sunroom, we ate dinner there twice – once in the sunroom and once in the
adjacent and larger formal dining room. All the rooms have large windows with
great views of the ever-changing tidal marsh, bay, and lush gardens. It’s an
unapologetic fish and seafood menu, with one lonely lamb dish – not the place
for someone who isn’t fond of fruits de mer. The three-course meal is prix
fixe at 61 Euros, with an addition for the cheese course.A two course option is just 51 Euros.
And, all we can say is that there was not a wrong note in
anything we ate over the three days! From the sea bream tartare to the special
spices served with organic yogurt in the morning, every taste – from breads to
condiments to desserts – were made with care and great expertise. Without
knowing it, I hit the jackpot the first night by ordering the special – not on the menu - a John Dory with
“Retour des Indes” spices. I later found out this was one of Chef Roellinger’s
most famous signature dishes from his 3-star place. It was heavenly, as were
the cheeses that followed. And,
each night, a dessert tray is pulled alongside the table, filled with choices
of freshly made ice cream, fruit tarts, macaroons, millefeuilles, and more.
But, the piece de resistance had to be the lobster we both
chose as our main dish on Cheryl’s birthday night. We are both lobster lovers
from way back, and have had many great ones – but none that matched what the
chefs here did. The lobster was split, and the roe seasoned with a savory
peppered mixture, then perfectly roasted in a fireplace. The claws, served
separately, were steamed and cracked, served in a casserole over small new
potatoes and baby carrots. A flavored lemony sauce was on the side – not
necessary, but that didn’t mean we didn’t dip the lobster into it! We didn’t
even mind the cloth bibs the dignified waiter tied on – way classier than the
plastic ones we’ve gotten in the States.
Great and gracious service, a knowledgeable sommelier who
found us well priced and tasty wines that matched our food perfectly – our
meals at Les Coquillages were perfect – truly perfect. All told, given the quality of the food, the setting, and the professional service, this is a great value! It’s a bit far from
Paris for a day trip – but we’ll definitely find the time to go again – for the
food, the hospitality, and the stunning every-changing vistas of sea, beach,
and sky.
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