Agape Substance lives up to the hype...

Paris food writers have already bestowed the "genius" moniker on this young chef at his new place near L'Odean. And, after one incredible meal, I can see why he's getting such rave reviews.

I'm very grateful to Paris food writer Alexander Lobrano. His blog (http://hungryforparis.squarespace.com/blog/2011/7/23/agape-substance-brilliant-eating-in-saint-germain-a-la-greno.html) does a great description of this truly special restaurant in the posh 6th Arrondisement, accompanied by photos. For some reason I've gotten squeamish about whipping out my phone to take pictures of every course - but I'm glad he included the pictures, as several were of dishes we ate, too.

Opened just three weeks before we ate there, we were surprised even at the room itself. The nondescript street entrance opens to a very narrow room. At the far end is the kitchen itself, but extending in an organic way from Chef David Toutain's command post is a long communal dining table, with stools on both sides (the stools are actually my only complaint...I much prefer having a back to my seating). A few two-tops complete the room, which, max, probably only seats about 20 to 24 people. From what we could tell, we were the only non-French speaking folks in the room, but were welcomed warmly by the professional and kind staff. We particularly loved the maitre'd...he was adorable, and knowledgeable.

Agape Substance is expensive - dinner was 99 Euros each plus wine - but this was a birthday dinner AND our last nite in Paris until January. The tasting menu is the only choice, and the wine list, with many biodynamic wines on it, was also on the high side, but none of that mattered once we had our first bite and sip....I've never eaten in a more personal and ingredient-driven restaurant. First, the menu is simply a listing of those key ingredients (eggs, monkfish, carrots, chocolate, peaches, etc.). The staff asks if there's anything on the list you don't like or have allergies to - and then the chef goes to work. As we were there on the earlier side, we got a lot of the chef's attention the first few courses. They would be brought to us, and then he'd come over and explain them in detail (in excellent English - his wife is from San Francisco), often adding the final ingredient himself.

The multi-course meal flowed very well...from a starter starring berce, a green seed we'd never heard of before, thru the luscious egg in a lemon verbana foam, to the most amazing wedge of tomato I'd ever had - topped by the chef with a large spoonful of what looked like green powder, and turned out to be some sort of freeze-dried basil pearls that melted in your mouth. Amazing - both simple and complex at the same time. This kind of molecular gastronomy I can easily live with.

My two personal favorites were the crab dish...little mounds of incredibly sweet crab and a bit of grapefruit in an intense shrimp broth, and, surprisingly (to me), a perfect little plate of sweetbreads (tho the monkfish dish was also sublime). I'm always challenged in these environments to eat everything...I start off strong, but do fade towards the finish. At one point, I made my way to the restaurant's bathroom -- which, btw, is the coolest, most high tech little toilet room I've ever seen -- and mentioned to the chef I was getting full. Probably, my bad, as we noticed other diners getting some dishes we didn't -- but, honestly, I was glad to have been listened to.

If there were any disappointments it was with the lack of chocolate in the desserts...Cheryl just doesn't feel non-chocolate desserts are really dessert. That aside, I thought the perfectly poached peach and accompaniments were delicious.

Agape Substance is certainly not the kind of place to go to often - it wouldn't be good for the digestive system or the checkbook....but it is definitely worth going to on a regular basis just to experience some of the most talented and creative cooking you'll ever have. We're already planning to take friends there in January - and know we'll have to make arrangements way in advance as this will soon be one of the hardest reservations to get in Paris. FYI, for our Bay Area friends, Chef Toutain thinks Bentu is San Francisco's best restaurant...I would trust his opinion.

Septime was sublime...

I knew this was going to be a problem. The last few days in Paris were busy and I didn't write about my meals right away...so if some details are missed, don't hold it against me!

We were so glad to have snagged a lunch reservation at Septime! Sometimes these new places with rising star chefs are overrated, but not in this case. We really loved the ingredient-driven menu and approach...a few flourishes with foams and purees, but very "flavor forward." It was a lovely meal from start to finish, and we'd go back in a second.

The prix fixe lunch (26 Euros for three courses, 21 Euro for 2) came with a lovely glass of wine (red or white), and a few choices for entree, plat, and dessert. Cheryl, of course, chose the gazpacho, which rated about the best we've ever had. The deeply flavored tomato-based soup was crowned with a mound of cucumber foam, sitting atop a slice of burrata (that wonderful Italian mozzarella/ricotta cheese). The combination of flavors and textures was just fabulous. Meanwhile, I had a tuna tartare....well prepared, but not a standout like the gazpacho.

The main course winner was the duck - a large slice of breast meat, cooked medium rare, and incredibly tasty. It was served with beautiful tiny roasted vegetables - beets, carrots, among others. Simple and wonderful. But nearly as good was a roasted cabillaud (cod) served with a smoky and savory eggplant puree.  I chose cheese for dessert, and was rewarded with a perfectly aged robuchon, melting in your mouth delicious, and a comte. I have completely forgotten what Cheryl had for dessert, as I was too preoccupied with my cheese.

The service was friendly and very professional, the atmosphere straightforward. As we were a few minutes late for our reservation, we were placed at the communal table near the bar - not a problem at all, but the small main room has a better view of the kitchen action. Septime has been criticized for the simplicity of its decor...we liked the mix of rustic with a slight industrial tinge to the lighting fixtures. It was comfortable and welcoming. We'll definitely head back there for another meal when we return in January....but will be sure to make our reservations well ahead of time. It's an easy 15 minute walk from our apartment, btw, with a number of interesting boutiques and cafes along the way.

Septime
80, rue de Charonne
Paris 11e.
M°: Charonne.
Tél. 01 43 67 38 29