We've walked by Le Carré des Vosges a million times (more or less), but haven't ever stopped. But, one night cruising Paris's Open Table-like site, LaFourchette.com, I noticed that Le Carré des Vosges had great ratings and reviews, several diners remarking on the interesting twists the Japanese chef added to the French menu. So I made a reservation on-line, and off we went later that nite.
It's a very pretty room - and, importantly, had air conditioning as the outside temp was still in the low 90s! From what I've learned, the original Le Carré des Vosges was an elegant spot; this newer iteration shows some of the bones of the original decor, but has a more casual air about it. The casualness was also evident by the warm greeting of the host/waiter/sommelier. He spoke great English but humored us by tolerating our bad French. He was charming and knowledgeable, steering us to a 2011 Sancerre from Domain Girault to start. He then brought us a tasty amuse bouche, a small cup of gazpacho, sweetened with watermelon and spiced with Tabasco, coriander, and anise. A promising and interesting start.
The menu was moderately priced, and offered a range of choices. I started with an entree titled Le Poulpe, described as a "press" of red peppers and eggplant, with octopus confit and tapenade (14 Euros). The red pepper and eggplant caviar came pressed around a cucumber core, and surrounded by dime-sized bites of very tender octopus. Two swaths, one of pesto and the other the olive tapenade added depth, while arugula and watercress added color and texture. Meanwhile, Cheryl's entree, billed simply as a "la tomate-mozza," was a great creative twist on this classic caprese, and was part of the well-priced (39 Euros) three course prix fixe menu. Generous slices of ripe heirloom tomatoes were perched on and under a light mozzarella foam , scented with fennel - creating an almost soup-like texture to the dish. Very yummy.
I ordered a second entree for my main dish, thinking I would be eating relatively lightly that evening. Titled "le poulet fermier," it was described as a ballotine, with foie gras and a pineapple gelee, and priced at 16 Euros. Okay, thinking anything with foie gras is going to be light was a mistake - but how could I have predicted the substantial amount in the ballotine. And, though I was skeptical of the pineapple gelee, it was done beautifully, and married well with the chicken and foie gras. Overall, this was an elegant and well executed dish - much more than I'd expected on many levels.
Cheryl continued with the prix fixe, ordering the "cochon." This was perfectly roasted pork, perhaps done sous vide, on a bed of haricots vert,and baby potatoes. Grilled tomatoes completed the plate, topped with bread crumbs. We were surprised by the generous portion that included a meaty rib, making Cheryl's night!
Having had ice cream from our favorite place, Grom, earlier in the day, we passed on desserts, though I was sorely tempted by the roasted white peach. Overall, we thought the food was great - well sourced ingredients, clear expertise in the kitchen, and an interesting mix of techniques and spices. We'll definitely go back. Chez Janou and Cave St. Gilles are wonderful to have so close to our apartment- but sometime a touch of elegance is a welcome respite, particularly when it's both nearby and affordable.
Le Carré des Vosges
15 rue Saint Gilles 75003
Phone: 01 42 71 22 21
Web: www.lecarredesvosges.fr
Friday, August 9, 2013
Saturday, August 3, 2013
A Lovely Night at Verjus
With our nephew (and great photographer) and his wife, and in celebration of Cheryl’s
upcoming big birthday, we ate at Verjus on a very warm Monday nite in July. The
restaurant, tucked behind the Palais Royal, was about 2/3 full, and heavily American – which was not the norm of
most places we ate this trip – but that’s also what happens when Paris
restaurants get written up in the NY Times.
I’ve previously written about Braden and Laura, the talented
couple from Seattle behind, first, Hidden Kitchen, and now Verjus, its
adjoining wine bar, and a newly launched lunchtime sandwich shop. It’s been fun to watch Braden develop as a chef – each time
we eat his food we’re more impressed than the last. And this was no exception.
What I found most interesting is that not only hasn't he lost his Pacific Northwest
roots – but is celebrating it. Verjus' web site unabashedly bills it as "New American" cuisine, though based on using well-sourced and pristine French ingredients.
The restaurant offers an eight course fixed price tasting
menu at 60 Euros (with a cheese course extra, and wine pairings (by Laura) at
an additional 40 Euros. We went whole hog with the wine pairings, as they all
looked so interesting – and when you’re doing a splurge, why not? I don’t do
these kinds of meals that much as I’m a lightweight – by the time we get to the
meat courses, I’m usually over the top. Perhaps I need to learn to pace myself
better – and, even with small portions, leave more on my plate. But, the
earlier dishes are usually the most interesting to me, making that strategy
difficult to follow. Ah, how I must sacrifice in the name of gastronomic experiences!
At Verjus, the meal began with a lovely glass of Domaine
Labet, a cremant from the Jura, with an amuse-bouche that combined a touch of
tomatos, onion, feta, and a teensy garlic crouton.
The
second course was a fabulous sashimi of sorts, made with skipjack, radish, lime, cilantro, and corn. This was followed by lovely little
dumplings – somewhere between very light matzo balls and gnocchi, made of
buffalo milk and ricotta, in a lemon sauce accented with wild herbs, peas,
heirloom carrots, and hazelnuts. The second wine, previously unknown to us, was
a 2011Rousette de Savoie from Chateau de Merande.
Fortunately, the meal was well paced, as I was already
starting to feel that dreaded “full” sensation…but I shouldered on and was
rewarded with my favorite dish of the night – one that truly reflected an
American chef in Paris, melding great local ingredients and technique with a
Pacific coast sensibility. It came in the form of a seared trout, with spicy
chiles, chanterelles a bit of guanciale, sitting on an aromatic roasted corn
soup. Yum. And, a 1999 white
burgundy from Domaine Pierre Morey was lovely – perhaps my favorite of the
night.
As you might guess, we’re now heading into the poultry/red
meat portions of the tasting menu.
The fifth course was seared slices of duck, resting along side a petite
bed of celery root, red cabbage, orange, and rye.
It was very good,
particularly the way the rye brought the dish together --- but, as a whole, it
seemed out of place – it belonged on a fall/winter menu, not one in the heat of
the summer. The duck was followed
by a grilled hanger steak.
While not usually my favorite cut of beef in Paris
(it’s often tough), here it was meltingly tender, paired with new potatoes,
baby spinach and other little vegies, horseradish, and an interesting cured egg
yolk. If Verjus had an ala carte
menu, this is a dish I would go for every time.. A nice, if not exciting, Domaine Vacheron Sancerre (2011) was poured with the duck, and a
very good 2012 Corbieres (Domaine les Promosses de la Terre) with the beef.
At this point of a tasting menu, I don’t always trust my
palate – but I do know I really loved the lemon polenta cake with blueberries,
greek yogurt, and honey. Again, this dish evoked both French and American sensibilities and flavors at
the same time.
The second dessert was served at the same time – a practice I’m
not fond of….but I guess it lets diners pick and choose their sweets. Anyway,
it was an espresso panna cotta with cherries, almonds, and a fab little almond
shortbread. Everyone at the table liked the panna cotta but me – I thought it
was short on flavor and a bit too gelatinous ---but that was just me – everyone
else scooped up every bite.
Overall, it was a lovely evening, though I was a bit
disappointed that even though I had told them ahead of time, they’d forgotten
it was Cheryl’s birthday and didn’t add a sparkler or two to her dessert.
Cheryl, on the other hand, was just as glad to have her birthday not be so
publicly announced! We’ll return to Verjus – probably not every trip to Paris,
but on a regular basis to see how it evolves. And we'll definitely be dropping by the wine bar whenever we're in the vicinity.
Verjus
52, rue de Richelieu
Phone: 01.42.97.54.40
Email: verjusparis@gmail.com
Le Coquillage in Brittany - the best meals ever!
On most of our trips to Paris to take care of our apartment,
we take a couple of days and travel to new places in France. As this blog is
designed to help friends, family, and clients find interesting places to eat in
Paris, I don’t usually write about the food on our side trips.
But, I have to make an exception for some outrageously good
food we had in Brittany, at the restaurant, Le Coquillage, at Olivier and
Jane Roellinger’s Chateau Richeau. In fact, during the three days we were
there, we might have eaten some of the best food we’ve ever had in our lives.
And, while doing so, we got to stay in this gorgeous chateau, right on the edge
of the bay of Mont. St. Michel. When I found this place on-line, I knew it had
a good restaurant, but really didn’t understand what it meant that Chef
Roellinger previously had a Michelin 3-star place in nearby Cancale, best known for his innovative fresh spice blends. The only three star we had ever eaten
at was Anzak in San Sebastien, Spain – a whole bunch of years ago. And, we’ve never eaten in a 3 star in
Paris or anywhere else in France, for that matter.
Where to begin – let me tell you what happened when we
arrived at the hotel about 2pm, after taking the TGV from Paris to Rennes, and
then driving to Cancale. We asked at the hotel where we could get a bite of
lunch, and were told that they were fully booked, but would be glad to bring us
a plate or two to the salon (a beautiful room with comfortable seating
overlooking the garden and the bay).
Our intent was to just eat lightly, as we had a reservation for dinner
there that evening. We could see the two full dining rooms from the salon, and
passed a gorgeous looking cheese tray on the way in.
Places were set for us and menus brought --- and we began to
get an inkling of what we were in for when a trio of amuse-bouches were set in front of us, along with two kinds of Breton butter (one sweet, one spiced with cumin and
other flavors) and several kinds of bread. Knowing the area was famous for oysters, Cheryl had ordered
a plate on the half shell, while I picked an entrée of warm oysters with
artichokes and “curry Corsaire.”
Cheryl also asked if she could have a plate of some sort of mixed
vegetables. OMG – Cheryl’s oysters - 9 of them – were plump and sweet, and each
line of three was touched with a different seasoning. My plate was heavenly –
the same great oysters, just warmed and in a frothy lightly curried broth with
tender baby artichokes. Then two huge vegetable plates were set before us, with
a mélange of baby vegetables, snow peas, more artichokes, and favas – in a
lovely buttery sauce. Only later did we appreciate this was not on the menu –
and they made it for us while in the midst of their lunch service to a full
house!
In addition to two lovely breakfasts in the chateau’s
sunroom, we ate dinner there twice – once in the sunroom and once in the
adjacent and larger formal dining room. All the rooms have large windows with
great views of the ever-changing tidal marsh, bay, and lush gardens. It’s an
unapologetic fish and seafood menu, with one lonely lamb dish – not the place
for someone who isn’t fond of fruits de mer. The three-course meal is prix
fixe at 61 Euros, with an addition for the cheese course.A two course option is just 51 Euros.
And, all we can say is that there was not a wrong note in
anything we ate over the three days! From the sea bream tartare to the special
spices served with organic yogurt in the morning, every taste – from breads to
condiments to desserts – were made with care and great expertise. Without
knowing it, I hit the jackpot the first night by ordering the special – not on the menu - a John Dory with
“Retour des Indes” spices. I later found out this was one of Chef Roellinger’s
most famous signature dishes from his 3-star place. It was heavenly, as were
the cheeses that followed. And,
each night, a dessert tray is pulled alongside the table, filled with choices
of freshly made ice cream, fruit tarts, macaroons, millefeuilles, and more.
But, the piece de resistance had to be the lobster we both
chose as our main dish on Cheryl’s birthday night. We are both lobster lovers
from way back, and have had many great ones – but none that matched what the
chefs here did. The lobster was split, and the roe seasoned with a savory
peppered mixture, then perfectly roasted in a fireplace. The claws, served
separately, were steamed and cracked, served in a casserole over small new
potatoes and baby carrots. A flavored lemony sauce was on the side – not
necessary, but that didn’t mean we didn’t dip the lobster into it! We didn’t
even mind the cloth bibs the dignified waiter tied on – way classier than the
plastic ones we’ve gotten in the States.
Great and gracious service, a knowledgeable sommelier who
found us well priced and tasty wines that matched our food perfectly – our
meals at Les Coquillages were perfect – truly perfect. All told, given the quality of the food, the setting, and the professional service, this is a great value! It’s a bit far from
Paris for a day trip – but we’ll definitely find the time to go again – for the
food, the hospitality, and the stunning every-changing vistas of sea, beach,
and sky.
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
Pass up Au Passage for now...
For quite a while, we'd been hearing about Au Passage, just across the road from us in the 11th, in the Passage St. Sebastien. Creative chef, small plates, off the beaten track -- all things that appeal. But! parisbymouth warned us that the original chef had left to start a new venture (Bones), and that the rave reviews were mostly posted under his tenure. And, our friend Amele said she'd read mixed opinions as well from other Parisien food sites.
Nevertheless, Amele, Cheryl and I ventured out on a very hot July night to check it out. And, have to say it completely disappointed all of us, at almost every level. Okay, the folks in charge weren't responsible for the weather - but they were responsible for the food and ambience - and both were terrible.
One of the things we love about Paris is that, no matter how crowded, it's usually possible to hear your dinner companions across the table. Unlike San Francisco, where restaurant ratings now include noise levels because of the insane need to pipe in very loud music and have surfaces sounds love to bounce off, Paris has always seemed different. So much so that we had concluded that Parisiens just naturally modulate their voices so as to to keep the ruckus down. Not at Au Passage, though. The sound level was through the stratosphere...don't know if it was the low ceilings, or just rowdy groups of diners, but we couldn't hear ourselves think, much less talk.
That might have been forgiven if the food had been great, but, sadly, it wasn't. We started with gazpacho - the only thing all of us agreed was tasty. Then, we moved on to head-on shrimp, with a bit of smoked paprika powder on the side. The shrimp were okay, but a bit soft on texture and flavor. In fact, lack of flavor was the theme of the night. They're using good ingredients, as a rule, but there is nothing going on in the kitchen to make the dishes interesting. Cases in point were a dish of cucumbers, creme fraiche and herbs, and a lentil/fresh ricotta/chervil plate. Both cried out for more assertive seasonings. A bronzed chicken leg and deboned breast came next, over an eggplant puree and thyme. The leg was overcooked and dry, and, though dishes are meant to be shared, was not very easy to dig into. The eggplant puree could have been good, but again missed the mark. Just can't understand sending food out like that...didn't anyone in the kitchen taste it?
The best dish of the night might have been the last one, the veal tartare - good texture, good flavor - but by that time we were just over Au Passage, the noise, the heat, and the boring food.
The only saving grace that evening was watching an adorable young boy - maybe 10 years old or so, eye the raw oysters on the shell his parents had ordered. He was clearly intrigued, and was encouraged by his father to try it. After a few minutes examining one of them, and getting advice on how to slurp it, he did so. His face was priceless - he clearly didn't like it, but kept up a brave front....bravo! For how do you know if you don't try? Similar to our misadventure at Au Passage - we're glad we tried it, but won't be going back soon.
Nevertheless, Amele, Cheryl and I ventured out on a very hot July night to check it out. And, have to say it completely disappointed all of us, at almost every level. Okay, the folks in charge weren't responsible for the weather - but they were responsible for the food and ambience - and both were terrible.
One of the things we love about Paris is that, no matter how crowded, it's usually possible to hear your dinner companions across the table. Unlike San Francisco, where restaurant ratings now include noise levels because of the insane need to pipe in very loud music and have surfaces sounds love to bounce off, Paris has always seemed different. So much so that we had concluded that Parisiens just naturally modulate their voices so as to to keep the ruckus down. Not at Au Passage, though. The sound level was through the stratosphere...don't know if it was the low ceilings, or just rowdy groups of diners, but we couldn't hear ourselves think, much less talk.
That might have been forgiven if the food had been great, but, sadly, it wasn't. We started with gazpacho - the only thing all of us agreed was tasty. Then, we moved on to head-on shrimp, with a bit of smoked paprika powder on the side. The shrimp were okay, but a bit soft on texture and flavor. In fact, lack of flavor was the theme of the night. They're using good ingredients, as a rule, but there is nothing going on in the kitchen to make the dishes interesting. Cases in point were a dish of cucumbers, creme fraiche and herbs, and a lentil/fresh ricotta/chervil plate. Both cried out for more assertive seasonings. A bronzed chicken leg and deboned breast came next, over an eggplant puree and thyme. The leg was overcooked and dry, and, though dishes are meant to be shared, was not very easy to dig into. The eggplant puree could have been good, but again missed the mark. Just can't understand sending food out like that...didn't anyone in the kitchen taste it?
The best dish of the night might have been the last one, the veal tartare - good texture, good flavor - but by that time we were just over Au Passage, the noise, the heat, and the boring food.
The only saving grace that evening was watching an adorable young boy - maybe 10 years old or so, eye the raw oysters on the shell his parents had ordered. He was clearly intrigued, and was encouraged by his father to try it. After a few minutes examining one of them, and getting advice on how to slurp it, he did so. His face was priceless - he clearly didn't like it, but kept up a brave front....bravo! For how do you know if you don't try? Similar to our misadventure at Au Passage - we're glad we tried it, but won't be going back soon.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Rino Hits it out of the Park
We've eaten so much good food in San Francisco and Paris over the last several years, it's hard to compare one great meal to another. But last nite's dinner at Rino was truly special. We'd heard about it, walked by it when it was closed, but had never eaten there. It's a teensy space on rue Trousseau in the 11th arrondisement, equidistant between rue Charonne and the Faubourg St. Antoine.
We were very excited to snag a reservation for 5 on a hot July night. Two small tables out front, another two small high-topped tables inside the door on the left, the tiny kitchen on the right, then, past a double wine refrigerator, 8 more small tables. As is the trend with young chefs in Paris, there are only two choices for the evening, a four (45 Euros) or a 6 course (58 Euros) tasting menu.
Four of us were still jet-lagged, so we all opted for the 4 course option. It began with a gorgeous tortellini in brodo, beautifully accompanied by a lovely 2011 Marsannay au Champ Salomon. Italianesque, but not exactly...the four tortellini were petite and open like a flower, stuffed with a savory lamb mixture, topped with a thin shaving of tasty bottarga, and all sitting in an intensely aromatic broth. The waiter advised us that
the chef suggested it be eaten with a spoon - not a problem. None of us wanted to waste one drop, and the crusty whole wheat bread was a great help in that regard.
As enamored as we were of the first course, the second may have outdone it. Imagine a moderately-sized piece of rare tuna, lightly seared, sitting on a bed of baby lettuce and beet greens. Tucked underneath on one side is a puree of heavenly velvety smoked eggplant, and all of it sits in a divine cassis sauce, with a few berries sprinkled around. Part of the chef's genius is that each and every component brings its own flavors and textures, yet the whole meshes beautifully.
By the time we got to the third course, we were ready for a second bottle of wine. A 2011 Pic Saint-Loup from Languedoc got our attention...substantial, a bit barnyard, but still light enough to offset the evening warmth. Then came the pork, sous vide, pink and meltingly tender, nestled on a bed of baby carrots, sea beans, and sunflower greens, and touched with honey. But what made it really stand out was the light smear of an anchovy sauce on the bottom of the plate, adding just the right saltiness and depth to the dish. Each of us cleaned our plate --- again.
The finale was a bowl composed of a luscious rice pudding with passion fruit ice cream, adorned with raspberries and swirls of what we think was rhubarb. Small dots of brittle added texture and sweetness. A lovely light ending to a wonderful meal.
Besides the great company, what I liked so much was how well the meal flowed - each dish stood on its own, each component of great quality and flavor - but it all worked together so well. And, unlike many tasting menus we were satisfied but not so stuffed as to be uncomfortable. All told, a memorable meal - we will definitely be back!
Rino
46, rue Trousseau
75011 Paris
01 48 06 95 85
www.rino-restaurant.com
We were very excited to snag a reservation for 5 on a hot July night. Two small tables out front, another two small high-topped tables inside the door on the left, the tiny kitchen on the right, then, past a double wine refrigerator, 8 more small tables. As is the trend with young chefs in Paris, there are only two choices for the evening, a four (45 Euros) or a 6 course (58 Euros) tasting menu.
Four of us were still jet-lagged, so we all opted for the 4 course option. It began with a gorgeous tortellini in brodo, beautifully accompanied by a lovely 2011 Marsannay au Champ Salomon. Italianesque, but not exactly...the four tortellini were petite and open like a flower, stuffed with a savory lamb mixture, topped with a thin shaving of tasty bottarga, and all sitting in an intensely aromatic broth. The waiter advised us that
As enamored as we were of the first course, the second may have outdone it. Imagine a moderately-sized piece of rare tuna, lightly seared, sitting on a bed of baby lettuce and beet greens. Tucked underneath on one side is a puree of heavenly velvety smoked eggplant, and all of it sits in a divine cassis sauce, with a few berries sprinkled around. Part of the chef's genius is that each and every component brings its own flavors and textures, yet the whole meshes beautifully.
By the time we got to the third course, we were ready for a second bottle of wine. A 2011 Pic Saint-Loup from Languedoc got our attention...substantial, a bit barnyard, but still light enough to offset the evening warmth. Then came the pork, sous vide, pink and meltingly tender, nestled on a bed of baby carrots, sea beans, and sunflower greens, and touched with honey. But what made it really stand out was the light smear of an anchovy sauce on the bottom of the plate, adding just the right saltiness and depth to the dish. Each of us cleaned our plate --- again.
The finale was a bowl composed of a luscious rice pudding with passion fruit ice cream, adorned with raspberries and swirls of what we think was rhubarb. Small dots of brittle added texture and sweetness. A lovely light ending to a wonderful meal.
Besides the great company, what I liked so much was how well the meal flowed - each dish stood on its own, each component of great quality and flavor - but it all worked together so well. And, unlike many tasting menus we were satisfied but not so stuffed as to be uncomfortable. All told, a memorable meal - we will definitely be back!
Rino
46, rue Trousseau
75011 Paris
01 48 06 95 85
www.rino-restaurant.com
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
A New "Top 10" list from an esteemed chef/food writer
here's a quick link, via David Lebovitz, of the chef and food writer Virginia Willis' where to eat in Paris list:
http://virginiawillis.wordpress.com/2013/05/29/where-to-eat-in-paris/
And keep up with Meg's parisbymouth.com. That's become an important reference point for our twice yearly trips!
Happy eating.
http://virginiawillis.wordpress.com/2013/05/29/where-to-eat-in-paris/
And keep up with Meg's parisbymouth.com. That's become an important reference point for our twice yearly trips!
Happy eating.
Friday, January 11, 2013
Lunch - our favorite new meal!
For whatever reason, we have had some fabulous lunches this trip, outshining the mostly excellent dinners. A few days ago we loved the lunch at La Gazzetta (see my prior blog). Yesterday, after starting our day with the fashion exhibit at the Musee d'Orsay, we made our way over towards St. Germain to Yen, a restaurant that had been recommended by a Japanese friend in San Francisco. The upstairs room to which we were shown was modern and sparse, a beautiful flower arrangement anchoring one end.
Often, it is hard to know how to order the first time at a restaurant; we picked two entrees, a "tofu des noix" and a sashimi sampler, then each ordered a different soba soup. It turned out to be a perfect amount of food. The tofu came as a large bronzed cube, silky and nutty, as advertised. The sashimi included slices of mackerel, tuna, squid, and two white fish (couldn't catch the french names), and were each delicious in their own right - as good as anything we've had in San Francisco. My soup was with baby scallops, sweet and tasty, in a smoky full-flavored broth. Two others had soba with tempura, and the vegetables and shrimp were light and greaseless. Our fourth had the soba with an ample amount of fresh oysters, poached in the broth. We ended the meal by sharing house-made ice cream, one ginger-flavored and studded with small pieces of ginger, the other a black sesame scoop, on the mild side. Both ice creams were a bit more of the icy sort than the creamy type, but it prepared us well for an afternoon of shopping the sales!
Then, today, we met our friends Sophie and Michelle at Beaucoups, the new restaurant in our neighborhood from the same people who own Glou. We had eaten well at Glou this summer (I apologize for my non-blogging that trip), though we've been told by others that it can be uneven. Anyway, it's modern French food - not dissimilar from the new wave of San Francisco eateries. And, Beaucoups could easily be in San Francisco - a long room with an open kitchen and wood-burning grill at one end, the long wall lined with soft blue banquettes.
As Sophie reminded us, it's usually smart to order one of the lunch specials, as those are often made with the freshest foods in the kitchen - and Beaucoups and restos like it also offer a very reasonable prix fixe lunch (and, dinner as well). So we all ordered the braised cod, served on a bed of Beluga lentils, and garnished with a paper thin slice of lardo. We followed up by sharing (thank goodness) a rich dark chocolate tart, served over a bed of grated orange rind, the plate dotted with an orange sauce. A satisfying lunch - well prepared, nice atmosphere, great company!
Yen
22 rue Saint-Benoît, 6th arrondisement
01 45 44 11 18
Beaucoups
7 rue Froissart, 3rd arrondisement
01 42 77 38 47
Often, it is hard to know how to order the first time at a restaurant; we picked two entrees, a "tofu des noix" and a sashimi sampler, then each ordered a different soba soup. It turned out to be a perfect amount of food. The tofu came as a large bronzed cube, silky and nutty, as advertised. The sashimi included slices of mackerel, tuna, squid, and two white fish (couldn't catch the french names), and were each delicious in their own right - as good as anything we've had in San Francisco. My soup was with baby scallops, sweet and tasty, in a smoky full-flavored broth. Two others had soba with tempura, and the vegetables and shrimp were light and greaseless. Our fourth had the soba with an ample amount of fresh oysters, poached in the broth. We ended the meal by sharing house-made ice cream, one ginger-flavored and studded with small pieces of ginger, the other a black sesame scoop, on the mild side. Both ice creams were a bit more of the icy sort than the creamy type, but it prepared us well for an afternoon of shopping the sales!
Then, today, we met our friends Sophie and Michelle at Beaucoups, the new restaurant in our neighborhood from the same people who own Glou. We had eaten well at Glou this summer (I apologize for my non-blogging that trip), though we've been told by others that it can be uneven. Anyway, it's modern French food - not dissimilar from the new wave of San Francisco eateries. And, Beaucoups could easily be in San Francisco - a long room with an open kitchen and wood-burning grill at one end, the long wall lined with soft blue banquettes.
As Sophie reminded us, it's usually smart to order one of the lunch specials, as those are often made with the freshest foods in the kitchen - and Beaucoups and restos like it also offer a very reasonable prix fixe lunch (and, dinner as well). So we all ordered the braised cod, served on a bed of Beluga lentils, and garnished with a paper thin slice of lardo. We followed up by sharing (thank goodness) a rich dark chocolate tart, served over a bed of grated orange rind, the plate dotted with an orange sauce. A satisfying lunch - well prepared, nice atmosphere, great company!
Yen
22 rue Saint-Benoît, 6th arrondisement
01 45 44 11 18
Beaucoups
7 rue Froissart, 3rd arrondisement
01 42 77 38 47
Breizh Cafe - finally
You'd have thought we would have gotten here before 2013! On an upscale block of rue Vielle du Temple, Breizh Cafe has been a foodie fixture, serving up authentic Breton crepes and hard cider. The crepes come sweet or savory, with top notch ingredients in whatever direction you go. I don't know why we waited so long, but a wintry nite was a perfect time to grab an early reservation with some jet-lagged friends, and warm up with one of the many hard ciders on the menu. We each opted for different savory crepes, but began with a dozen briny and creamy oysters on the half shell and the sample of smoked butter from Breton, served tucked into small folded pieces of a galette of ble noir (buckwheat).
The crepes, or galettes, themselves were thin and delicate, and came with different toppings (cheese, ham, poached egg, vegetables, etc.). They each quickly disappeared, a perfect light supper. A dessert crepe could not be avoided....the one we shared was like a tarte tatin - with apples, a caramel sauce and creme fraiche. Yum.
There is also a small take-out shop adjoining, where you can buy versions of the wonderful Breton butter, and many other tasty things. Now that we've been there once, you can be certain we'll return.
Here's the particulars:
109 rue Vieille du Temple
01 42 72 13 77
The crepes, or galettes, themselves were thin and delicate, and came with different toppings (cheese, ham, poached egg, vegetables, etc.). They each quickly disappeared, a perfect light supper. A dessert crepe could not be avoided....the one we shared was like a tarte tatin - with apples, a caramel sauce and creme fraiche. Yum.
There is also a small take-out shop adjoining, where you can buy versions of the wonderful Breton butter, and many other tasty things. Now that we've been there once, you can be certain we'll return.
Here's the particulars:
109 rue Vieille du Temple
01 42 72 13 77
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
a lovely lunch at La Gazzetta
Thank goodness that our dinner at La Fontaine des Mars was preceded by a fabulous, and unexpected, lunch at La Gazzetta. We'd eaten dinner there before, a multi-course meal that I remember fondly (though with no details)...but we had no plans to stop there for lunch. It is an oddity - a highly rated French resto with a Danish (or is he Swedish) chef...
We had taken a late morning walk down the Viaduc des Arts, starting at the new Opera House - just thinking we'd get a bit of exercise, check out the interesting stores, and then get lunch somewhere before heading to an afternoon at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre to see the Canaletto exhibit. As luck would have it, we got hungry about halfway down the Viaduc, and turned east towards the Marche d'Aligre. I didn't have any specific destination in mind, but knew there were a few small restos near the market, and on the way to the Metro. And, there, across the street was La Gazzetta - looking warm and inviting.
Knowing a big meal was planned for dinner we wanted to eat lightly - and ended up with a superb meal accompanied by a yummy Sancerre. Three of chose to have the entree and a green salad, for just 11 euros. The entree turned out to be three small dishes, a fabulous and fully flavored pureed onion soup, a slice of pizza bianca with kale and black radish, and a tasty brandade with red peppers. Then, a simple green salad - that may have been the best little plate of lettuce we'd ever had. There was nothing special about the baby greens - but they were dressed so perfectly, with a tease of fleur de sel, that we all looked at each other in amazement. Even looking back, I'm surprised to be raving about it - but it was just so special, and a perfect counterpoint to the trio of entrees.
Our fourth companion had the same entrees, but for 4 Euros more followed his with a beautiful poached sea bass, surrounded by sweet carrots with a deeply caramelized surface and spinach. Espressos, served with small financiers, completed our surprising lunch. And, we went happily - very happily - on our way.
La Gazzetta
29, rue de Cotte, 12th arrondisement
01 43 47 47 05
lagazzetta.fr/
We had taken a late morning walk down the Viaduc des Arts, starting at the new Opera House - just thinking we'd get a bit of exercise, check out the interesting stores, and then get lunch somewhere before heading to an afternoon at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre to see the Canaletto exhibit. As luck would have it, we got hungry about halfway down the Viaduc, and turned east towards the Marche d'Aligre. I didn't have any specific destination in mind, but knew there were a few small restos near the market, and on the way to the Metro. And, there, across the street was La Gazzetta - looking warm and inviting.
Knowing a big meal was planned for dinner we wanted to eat lightly - and ended up with a superb meal accompanied by a yummy Sancerre. Three of chose to have the entree and a green salad, for just 11 euros. The entree turned out to be three small dishes, a fabulous and fully flavored pureed onion soup, a slice of pizza bianca with kale and black radish, and a tasty brandade with red peppers. Then, a simple green salad - that may have been the best little plate of lettuce we'd ever had. There was nothing special about the baby greens - but they were dressed so perfectly, with a tease of fleur de sel, that we all looked at each other in amazement. Even looking back, I'm surprised to be raving about it - but it was just so special, and a perfect counterpoint to the trio of entrees.
Our fourth companion had the same entrees, but for 4 Euros more followed his with a beautiful poached sea bass, surrounded by sweet carrots with a deeply caramelized surface and spinach. Espressos, served with small financiers, completed our surprising lunch. And, we went happily - very happily - on our way.
La Gazzetta
29, rue de Cotte, 12th arrondisement
01 43 47 47 05
lagazzetta.fr/
29 5012 Paris
tel: 01 43 47 47 05
La Fontaine des Mars disappoints...
So much food, so little time! The days fly by, and while we've made a dent in our restaurant list, there's so much more...that is why when one of the meals doesn't live up to either my expectations or its billing, it's so tragique...
One of our friends craved the cassoulet he'd had at La Fontaine des Mars on an earlier trip, and we had eaten well there on two prior occasions. It's a large bistro in the 7th, a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tour, and easy to Metro over from our apartment. So, off we went on a cold Paris evening. It is a pretty place, though our table was in a small alcove near the stairs - and most of the other diners were French, which I've always thought of as a good sign. But, other than the cassoulet, which our friend again adored, the rest of us had a forgettable (at best) meal. The best parts were the presentations...but the kitchen was careless to a fault. For example, our langoustine starter looked pretty, with their tails sticking out from under a passable ratatouille, but the crayfish were overcooked, and a few of the tails were missing their bodies. So, when you pulled the tail out from the vegetables, there was no there there. Our cassoulet friend had a parsnip soup, which had a lovely texture, but was light on flavor. The fourth at our table ordered the foie gras chaud, and was handed a lovely plate with a poached pair embraced by two large pieces of foie gras, but this too was overcooked, the liver losing all of its texture.
A saving grace was the 2009 Cornas I ordered, helping us steer through to the main courses. And, then another lovely 2009, a Volnay this time, kept us in a good mood. But, nothing could save what came next. A piece of skate came with a too-acidic sauce, scallops came overcooked (though on a tasty mound of puree), and my confit de canard was a complete disaster. This is a favorite dish of my mine in Paris, and I couldn't believe how poorly this famous restaurant had handled it. The piece of duck was just a leg (usually, one is served part of a breast and leg), the skin was fatty --- and the cardinal sin - not crispy at all. The potatoes were unseasoned, and did not seem freshly cooked. The only good thing on the plate was a pile of frisee. The only happy eater at our table was our friend with his cassoulet!
Not even desserts improved my feelings about La Fontaine...the kitchen, which was either inept, lazy, or both, could not mess up the Berthillion ice cream Cheryl had, but the creme brulee the rest of shared was heavy enough to sink the Titanic.
Yes, I know the Obamas ate here - there are even pictures on the wall to prove it. And, I certainly hope that the chef was in better form when the President dined...but for us it was expensive and very disappointing. It will take a lot of convincing to get me to return there anytime soon.
One of our friends craved the cassoulet he'd had at La Fontaine des Mars on an earlier trip, and we had eaten well there on two prior occasions. It's a large bistro in the 7th, a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tour, and easy to Metro over from our apartment. So, off we went on a cold Paris evening. It is a pretty place, though our table was in a small alcove near the stairs - and most of the other diners were French, which I've always thought of as a good sign. But, other than the cassoulet, which our friend again adored, the rest of us had a forgettable (at best) meal. The best parts were the presentations...but the kitchen was careless to a fault. For example, our langoustine starter looked pretty, with their tails sticking out from under a passable ratatouille, but the crayfish were overcooked, and a few of the tails were missing their bodies. So, when you pulled the tail out from the vegetables, there was no there there. Our cassoulet friend had a parsnip soup, which had a lovely texture, but was light on flavor. The fourth at our table ordered the foie gras chaud, and was handed a lovely plate with a poached pair embraced by two large pieces of foie gras, but this too was overcooked, the liver losing all of its texture.
A saving grace was the 2009 Cornas I ordered, helping us steer through to the main courses. And, then another lovely 2009, a Volnay this time, kept us in a good mood. But, nothing could save what came next. A piece of skate came with a too-acidic sauce, scallops came overcooked (though on a tasty mound of puree), and my confit de canard was a complete disaster. This is a favorite dish of my mine in Paris, and I couldn't believe how poorly this famous restaurant had handled it. The piece of duck was just a leg (usually, one is served part of a breast and leg), the skin was fatty --- and the cardinal sin - not crispy at all. The potatoes were unseasoned, and did not seem freshly cooked. The only good thing on the plate was a pile of frisee. The only happy eater at our table was our friend with his cassoulet!
Not even desserts improved my feelings about La Fontaine...the kitchen, which was either inept, lazy, or both, could not mess up the Berthillion ice cream Cheryl had, but the creme brulee the rest of shared was heavy enough to sink the Titanic.
Yes, I know the Obamas ate here - there are even pictures on the wall to prove it. And, I certainly hope that the chef was in better form when the President dined...but for us it was expensive and very disappointing. It will take a lot of convincing to get me to return there anytime soon.
Saturday, January 5, 2013
Hanoi Paris redux...
After a cold morning's walk thru the Marche d'Aligre with our friends, Robert and John, a bowl of pho sounded very tempting...good for the jet-lagged soul. So we headed over to rue Charonne, a short walk from the market, and lucked out to arrive at a bustling Hanoi-Paris with an empty table for four just inside the door. Shortly after we sat down, the line outside began to grow, and by the time we left, the wait was probably at least 30 minutes!
I have yet to have a bad meal here, and today was no exception. We shared an order of the spring rolls - as good if not better than those at Slanted Door in San Francisco, though I did miss the yummy spicy peanut sauce it is served with in SF. Then, three of the four of us tried the shrimp dumpling soup...beautiful bronze anise-spiced broth with tons of dumplings, each stuffed with chopped shrimp. Best of all were the slices of pate in the soup - like the pork meatballs in a banh mi sandwich, but even tastier.
We've also had a return visit to Cave St. Gilles, the Spanish restaurant down the street. We had just gotten off the airplane from SF, had a short nap, and wanted something light. I forget how good their food can be. Cheryl and I shared grilled razor clams and baby squid, and a plate of grilled vegetables, washed down with a bit of sangria.
After a walk thru Place des Vosges, we slept well - a good first nite in Paris.
I have yet to have a bad meal here, and today was no exception. We shared an order of the spring rolls - as good if not better than those at Slanted Door in San Francisco, though I did miss the yummy spicy peanut sauce it is served with in SF. Then, three of the four of us tried the shrimp dumpling soup...beautiful bronze anise-spiced broth with tons of dumplings, each stuffed with chopped shrimp. Best of all were the slices of pate in the soup - like the pork meatballs in a banh mi sandwich, but even tastier.
We've also had a return visit to Cave St. Gilles, the Spanish restaurant down the street. We had just gotten off the airplane from SF, had a short nap, and wanted something light. I forget how good their food can be. Cheryl and I shared grilled razor clams and baby squid, and a plate of grilled vegetables, washed down with a bit of sangria.
After a walk thru Place des Vosges, we slept well - a good first nite in Paris.
Finally back to Paris with time to blog. Last summer I was distracted - happily - by my two goddaughters. And, our food explorations were mostly limited to the tried and true with a 6 and 10 year old. But, this time - it's all a go.
First things first, just read in one of my favorite Paris food blogs, parisbymouth, that David Toutain and his entire staff at Agape Substance have left after a fight with the owner. Without his brilliant cooking, it is certainly not worth going to - and have cancelled our reservation there (made long ago). And, sadly for us, Verjus, a favorite, is undergoing some new year renovations, so that's off our list this trip, too.
But, on day one we had a beautiful lunch at the relatively new Auberge Flora, just a stone's throw away from the apartment. Can't recall what used to be on that corner of the Blvd. Richard Lenoir, but Flora is filling the space beautifully, Sparkling white and silver dishware adorns the walls - and for lunch one has a choice of a prix fixe, a la carte menu, or a two page menu of tapas. I went for the prix fixe, starting with a velvety chestnut soup in which a cloud of Chantilly creme floated, followed by a lovely sea bass, with citrus aromatics and atop a deeply flavored broth with salsify and mushrooms. Amele also had the prix fixe, but chose the beef stew as her main. The meat was tender, and served in its own small casserole over a polenta cake. Meanwhile, Cheryl chose an a la carte plat, several large shrimp, lightly tempura style, surrounding a salad of mache, sesame, and shrimp. And, for dessert we shared a light chocolate mousse, studded with marron glace. I took a bite, then looked down to make notes about our meal - when I looked up it was gone! Will have to be quicker next time....and there definitely will be a next time. Have heard this is a great brunch place....will try to return next week!
Here are the details:
Auberge Flora (it's a hotel, too)
44, boulevard Richard Lenoir, 11th Arr.
+33.1.47.00.52.77
First things first, just read in one of my favorite Paris food blogs, parisbymouth, that David Toutain and his entire staff at Agape Substance have left after a fight with the owner. Without his brilliant cooking, it is certainly not worth going to - and have cancelled our reservation there (made long ago). And, sadly for us, Verjus, a favorite, is undergoing some new year renovations, so that's off our list this trip, too.
But, on day one we had a beautiful lunch at the relatively new Auberge Flora, just a stone's throw away from the apartment. Can't recall what used to be on that corner of the Blvd. Richard Lenoir, but Flora is filling the space beautifully, Sparkling white and silver dishware adorns the walls - and for lunch one has a choice of a prix fixe, a la carte menu, or a two page menu of tapas. I went for the prix fixe, starting with a velvety chestnut soup in which a cloud of Chantilly creme floated, followed by a lovely sea bass, with citrus aromatics and atop a deeply flavored broth with salsify and mushrooms. Amele also had the prix fixe, but chose the beef stew as her main. The meat was tender, and served in its own small casserole over a polenta cake. Meanwhile, Cheryl chose an a la carte plat, several large shrimp, lightly tempura style, surrounding a salad of mache, sesame, and shrimp. And, for dessert we shared a light chocolate mousse, studded with marron glace. I took a bite, then looked down to make notes about our meal - when I looked up it was gone! Will have to be quicker next time....and there definitely will be a next time. Have heard this is a great brunch place....will try to return next week!
Here are the details:
Auberge Flora (it's a hotel, too)
44, boulevard Richard Lenoir, 11th Arr.
+33.1.47.00.52.77
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