Rino Hits it out of the Park

We've eaten so much good food in San Francisco and Paris over the last several years, it's hard to compare one great meal to another. But last nite's dinner at Rino was truly special. We'd heard about it, walked by it when it was closed, but had never eaten there. It's a teensy space on rue Trousseau in the 11th arrondisement, equidistant between rue Charonne and the Faubourg St. Antoine.

We were very excited to snag a reservation for 5 on a hot July night. Two small tables out front, another two small high-topped tables inside the door on the left, the tiny kitchen on the right, then, past a double wine refrigerator, 8 more small tables. As is the trend with young chefs in Paris, there are only two choices for the evening, a four (45 Euros) or a 6 course (58 Euros) tasting menu.

Four of us were still jet-lagged, so we all opted for the 4 course option. It began with a gorgeous tortellini in brodo, beautifully accompanied by a lovely 2011 Marsannay au Champ Salomon. Italianesque, but not exactly...the four tortellini were petite and open like a flower, stuffed with a savory lamb mixture, topped with a thin shaving of tasty bottarga, and all sitting in an intensely aromatic broth. The waiter advised us that

the chef suggested it be eaten with a spoon - not a problem. None of us wanted to waste one drop, and the crusty whole wheat bread was a great help in that regard.

As enamored as we were of the first course, the second may have outdone it.   Imagine a moderately-sized piece of rare tuna, lightly seared, sitting on a bed of baby lettuce and beet greens. Tucked underneath on one side is a puree of heavenly velvety smoked eggplant, and all of it sits in a divine cassis sauce, with a few berries sprinkled around. Part of the chef's genius is that each and every component brings its own flavors and textures, yet the whole meshes beautifully.

By the time we got to the third course, we were ready for a second bottle of wine. A 2011 Pic Saint-Loup from Languedoc got our attention...substantial, a bit barnyard, but still light enough to offset the evening warmth. Then came the pork, sous vide, pink and meltingly tender, nestled on a bed of baby carrots, sea beans, and sunflower greens, and touched with honey. But what made it really stand out was the light smear of an anchovy sauce on the bottom of the plate, adding just the right saltiness and depth to the dish. Each of us cleaned our plate --- again.

The finale was a bowl composed of a luscious rice pudding with passion fruit ice cream, adorned with raspberries and swirls of what we think was rhubarb. Small dots of brittle added texture and sweetness. A lovely light ending to a wonderful meal.

Besides the great company, what I liked so much was how well the meal flowed - each dish stood on its own, each component of great quality and flavor - but it all worked together so well. And, unlike many tasting menus we were satisfied but not so stuffed as to be uncomfortable. All told, a memorable meal - we will definitely be back!

Rino
46, rue Trousseau
75011 Paris
01 48 06 95 85
www.rino-restaurant.com