For whatever reason, we have had some fabulous lunches this trip, outshining the mostly excellent dinners. A few days ago we loved the lunch at La Gazzetta (see my prior blog). Yesterday, after starting our day with the fashion exhibit at the Musee d'Orsay, we made our way over towards St. Germain to Yen, a restaurant that had been recommended by a Japanese friend in San Francisco. The upstairs room to which we were shown was modern and sparse, a beautiful flower arrangement anchoring one end.
Often, it is hard to know how to order the first time at a restaurant;
we picked two entrees, a "tofu des noix" and a sashimi sampler, then
each ordered a different soba soup. It turned out to be a perfect amount of food. The tofu came as a large bronzed cube, silky and nutty, as advertised. The sashimi included slices of mackerel, tuna, squid, and two white fish (couldn't catch the french names), and were each delicious in their own right - as good as anything we've had in San Francisco. My soup was with baby scallops, sweet and tasty, in a smoky full-flavored broth. Two others had soba with tempura, and the vegetables and shrimp were light and greaseless. Our fourth had the soba with an ample amount of fresh oysters, poached in the broth. We ended the meal by sharing house-made ice cream, one ginger-flavored and studded with small pieces of ginger, the other a black sesame scoop, on the mild side. Both ice creams were a bit more of the icy sort than the creamy type, but it prepared us well for an afternoon of shopping the sales!
Then, today, we met our friends Sophie and Michelle at Beaucoups, the new restaurant in our neighborhood from the same people who own Glou. We had eaten well at Glou this summer (I apologize for my non-blogging that trip), though we've been told by others that it can be uneven. Anyway, it's modern French food - not dissimilar from the new wave of San Francisco eateries. And, Beaucoups could easily be in San Francisco - a long room with an open kitchen and wood-burning grill at one end, the long wall lined with soft blue banquettes.
As Sophie reminded us, it's usually smart to order one of the lunch specials, as those are often made with the freshest foods in the kitchen - and Beaucoups and restos like it also offer a very reasonable prix fixe lunch (and, dinner as well). So we all ordered the braised cod, served on a bed of Beluga lentils, and garnished with a paper thin slice of lardo. We followed up by sharing (thank goodness) a rich dark chocolate tart, served over a bed of grated orange rind, the plate dotted with an orange sauce. A satisfying lunch - well prepared, nice atmosphere, great company!
Yen
22 rue Saint-Benoît, 6th arrondisement
01 45 44 11 18
Beaucoups
7 rue Froissart, 3rd arrondisement
01 42 77 38 47
Friday, January 11, 2013
Breizh Cafe - finally
You'd have thought we would have gotten here before 2013! On an upscale block of rue Vielle du Temple, Breizh Cafe has been a foodie fixture, serving up authentic Breton crepes and hard cider. The crepes come sweet or savory, with top notch ingredients in whatever direction you go. I don't know why we waited so long, but a wintry nite was a perfect time to grab an early reservation with some jet-lagged friends, and warm up with one of the many hard ciders on the menu. We each opted for different savory crepes, but began with a dozen briny and creamy oysters on the half shell and the sample of smoked butter from Breton, served tucked into small folded pieces of a galette of ble noir (buckwheat).
The crepes, or galettes, themselves were thin and delicate, and came with different toppings (cheese, ham, poached egg, vegetables, etc.). They each quickly disappeared, a perfect light supper. A dessert crepe could not be avoided....the one we shared was like a tarte tatin - with apples, a caramel sauce and creme fraiche. Yum.
There is also a small take-out shop adjoining, where you can buy versions of the wonderful Breton butter, and many other tasty things. Now that we've been there once, you can be certain we'll return.
Here's the particulars:
109 rue Vieille du Temple
01 42 72 13 77
The crepes, or galettes, themselves were thin and delicate, and came with different toppings (cheese, ham, poached egg, vegetables, etc.). They each quickly disappeared, a perfect light supper. A dessert crepe could not be avoided....the one we shared was like a tarte tatin - with apples, a caramel sauce and creme fraiche. Yum.
There is also a small take-out shop adjoining, where you can buy versions of the wonderful Breton butter, and many other tasty things. Now that we've been there once, you can be certain we'll return.
Here's the particulars:
109 rue Vieille du Temple
01 42 72 13 77
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
a lovely lunch at La Gazzetta
Thank goodness that our dinner at La Fontaine des Mars was preceded by a fabulous, and unexpected, lunch at La Gazzetta. We'd eaten dinner there before, a multi-course meal that I remember fondly (though with no details)...but we had no plans to stop there for lunch. It is an oddity - a highly rated French resto with a Danish (or is he Swedish) chef...
We had taken a late morning walk down the Viaduc des Arts, starting at the new Opera House - just thinking we'd get a bit of exercise, check out the interesting stores, and then get lunch somewhere before heading to an afternoon at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre to see the Canaletto exhibit. As luck would have it, we got hungry about halfway down the Viaduc, and turned east towards the Marche d'Aligre. I didn't have any specific destination in mind, but knew there were a few small restos near the market, and on the way to the Metro. And, there, across the street was La Gazzetta - looking warm and inviting.
Knowing a big meal was planned for dinner we wanted to eat lightly - and ended up with a superb meal accompanied by a yummy Sancerre. Three of chose to have the entree and a green salad, for just 11 euros. The entree turned out to be three small dishes, a fabulous and fully flavored pureed onion soup, a slice of pizza bianca with kale and black radish, and a tasty brandade with red peppers. Then, a simple green salad - that may have been the best little plate of lettuce we'd ever had. There was nothing special about the baby greens - but they were dressed so perfectly, with a tease of fleur de sel, that we all looked at each other in amazement. Even looking back, I'm surprised to be raving about it - but it was just so special, and a perfect counterpoint to the trio of entrees.
Our fourth companion had the same entrees, but for 4 Euros more followed his with a beautiful poached sea bass, surrounded by sweet carrots with a deeply caramelized surface and spinach. Espressos, served with small financiers, completed our surprising lunch. And, we went happily - very happily - on our way.
La Gazzetta
29, rue de Cotte, 12th arrondisement
01 43 47 47 05
lagazzetta.fr/
We had taken a late morning walk down the Viaduc des Arts, starting at the new Opera House - just thinking we'd get a bit of exercise, check out the interesting stores, and then get lunch somewhere before heading to an afternoon at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre to see the Canaletto exhibit. As luck would have it, we got hungry about halfway down the Viaduc, and turned east towards the Marche d'Aligre. I didn't have any specific destination in mind, but knew there were a few small restos near the market, and on the way to the Metro. And, there, across the street was La Gazzetta - looking warm and inviting.
Knowing a big meal was planned for dinner we wanted to eat lightly - and ended up with a superb meal accompanied by a yummy Sancerre. Three of chose to have the entree and a green salad, for just 11 euros. The entree turned out to be three small dishes, a fabulous and fully flavored pureed onion soup, a slice of pizza bianca with kale and black radish, and a tasty brandade with red peppers. Then, a simple green salad - that may have been the best little plate of lettuce we'd ever had. There was nothing special about the baby greens - but they were dressed so perfectly, with a tease of fleur de sel, that we all looked at each other in amazement. Even looking back, I'm surprised to be raving about it - but it was just so special, and a perfect counterpoint to the trio of entrees.
Our fourth companion had the same entrees, but for 4 Euros more followed his with a beautiful poached sea bass, surrounded by sweet carrots with a deeply caramelized surface and spinach. Espressos, served with small financiers, completed our surprising lunch. And, we went happily - very happily - on our way.
La Gazzetta
29, rue de Cotte, 12th arrondisement
01 43 47 47 05
lagazzetta.fr/
29 5012 Paris
tel: 01 43 47 47 05
La Fontaine des Mars disappoints...
So much food, so little time! The days fly by, and while we've made a dent in our restaurant list, there's so much more...that is why when one of the meals doesn't live up to either my expectations or its billing, it's so tragique...
One of our friends craved the cassoulet he'd had at La Fontaine des Mars on an earlier trip, and we had eaten well there on two prior occasions. It's a large bistro in the 7th, a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tour, and easy to Metro over from our apartment. So, off we went on a cold Paris evening. It is a pretty place, though our table was in a small alcove near the stairs - and most of the other diners were French, which I've always thought of as a good sign. But, other than the cassoulet, which our friend again adored, the rest of us had a forgettable (at best) meal. The best parts were the presentations...but the kitchen was careless to a fault. For example, our langoustine starter looked pretty, with their tails sticking out from under a passable ratatouille, but the crayfish were overcooked, and a few of the tails were missing their bodies. So, when you pulled the tail out from the vegetables, there was no there there. Our cassoulet friend had a parsnip soup, which had a lovely texture, but was light on flavor. The fourth at our table ordered the foie gras chaud, and was handed a lovely plate with a poached pair embraced by two large pieces of foie gras, but this too was overcooked, the liver losing all of its texture.
A saving grace was the 2009 Cornas I ordered, helping us steer through to the main courses. And, then another lovely 2009, a Volnay this time, kept us in a good mood. But, nothing could save what came next. A piece of skate came with a too-acidic sauce, scallops came overcooked (though on a tasty mound of puree), and my confit de canard was a complete disaster. This is a favorite dish of my mine in Paris, and I couldn't believe how poorly this famous restaurant had handled it. The piece of duck was just a leg (usually, one is served part of a breast and leg), the skin was fatty --- and the cardinal sin - not crispy at all. The potatoes were unseasoned, and did not seem freshly cooked. The only good thing on the plate was a pile of frisee. The only happy eater at our table was our friend with his cassoulet!
Not even desserts improved my feelings about La Fontaine...the kitchen, which was either inept, lazy, or both, could not mess up the Berthillion ice cream Cheryl had, but the creme brulee the rest of shared was heavy enough to sink the Titanic.
Yes, I know the Obamas ate here - there are even pictures on the wall to prove it. And, I certainly hope that the chef was in better form when the President dined...but for us it was expensive and very disappointing. It will take a lot of convincing to get me to return there anytime soon.
One of our friends craved the cassoulet he'd had at La Fontaine des Mars on an earlier trip, and we had eaten well there on two prior occasions. It's a large bistro in the 7th, a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tour, and easy to Metro over from our apartment. So, off we went on a cold Paris evening. It is a pretty place, though our table was in a small alcove near the stairs - and most of the other diners were French, which I've always thought of as a good sign. But, other than the cassoulet, which our friend again adored, the rest of us had a forgettable (at best) meal. The best parts were the presentations...but the kitchen was careless to a fault. For example, our langoustine starter looked pretty, with their tails sticking out from under a passable ratatouille, but the crayfish were overcooked, and a few of the tails were missing their bodies. So, when you pulled the tail out from the vegetables, there was no there there. Our cassoulet friend had a parsnip soup, which had a lovely texture, but was light on flavor. The fourth at our table ordered the foie gras chaud, and was handed a lovely plate with a poached pair embraced by two large pieces of foie gras, but this too was overcooked, the liver losing all of its texture.
A saving grace was the 2009 Cornas I ordered, helping us steer through to the main courses. And, then another lovely 2009, a Volnay this time, kept us in a good mood. But, nothing could save what came next. A piece of skate came with a too-acidic sauce, scallops came overcooked (though on a tasty mound of puree), and my confit de canard was a complete disaster. This is a favorite dish of my mine in Paris, and I couldn't believe how poorly this famous restaurant had handled it. The piece of duck was just a leg (usually, one is served part of a breast and leg), the skin was fatty --- and the cardinal sin - not crispy at all. The potatoes were unseasoned, and did not seem freshly cooked. The only good thing on the plate was a pile of frisee. The only happy eater at our table was our friend with his cassoulet!
Not even desserts improved my feelings about La Fontaine...the kitchen, which was either inept, lazy, or both, could not mess up the Berthillion ice cream Cheryl had, but the creme brulee the rest of shared was heavy enough to sink the Titanic.
Yes, I know the Obamas ate here - there are even pictures on the wall to prove it. And, I certainly hope that the chef was in better form when the President dined...but for us it was expensive and very disappointing. It will take a lot of convincing to get me to return there anytime soon.
Saturday, January 5, 2013
Hanoi Paris redux...
After a cold morning's walk thru the Marche d'Aligre with our friends, Robert and John, a bowl of pho sounded very tempting...good for the jet-lagged soul. So we headed over to rue Charonne, a short walk from the market, and lucked out to arrive at a bustling Hanoi-Paris with an empty table for four just inside the door. Shortly after we sat down, the line outside began to grow, and by the time we left, the wait was probably at least 30 minutes!
I have yet to have a bad meal here, and today was no exception. We shared an order of the spring rolls - as good if not better than those at Slanted Door in San Francisco, though I did miss the yummy spicy peanut sauce it is served with in SF. Then, three of the four of us tried the shrimp dumpling soup...beautiful bronze anise-spiced broth with tons of dumplings, each stuffed with chopped shrimp. Best of all were the slices of pate in the soup - like the pork meatballs in a banh mi sandwich, but even tastier.
We've also had a return visit to Cave St. Gilles, the Spanish restaurant down the street. We had just gotten off the airplane from SF, had a short nap, and wanted something light. I forget how good their food can be. Cheryl and I shared grilled razor clams and baby squid, and a plate of grilled vegetables, washed down with a bit of sangria.
After a walk thru Place des Vosges, we slept well - a good first nite in Paris.
I have yet to have a bad meal here, and today was no exception. We shared an order of the spring rolls - as good if not better than those at Slanted Door in San Francisco, though I did miss the yummy spicy peanut sauce it is served with in SF. Then, three of the four of us tried the shrimp dumpling soup...beautiful bronze anise-spiced broth with tons of dumplings, each stuffed with chopped shrimp. Best of all were the slices of pate in the soup - like the pork meatballs in a banh mi sandwich, but even tastier.
We've also had a return visit to Cave St. Gilles, the Spanish restaurant down the street. We had just gotten off the airplane from SF, had a short nap, and wanted something light. I forget how good their food can be. Cheryl and I shared grilled razor clams and baby squid, and a plate of grilled vegetables, washed down with a bit of sangria.
After a walk thru Place des Vosges, we slept well - a good first nite in Paris.
Finally back to Paris with time to blog. Last summer I was distracted - happily - by my two goddaughters. And, our food explorations were mostly limited to the tried and true with a 6 and 10 year old. But, this time - it's all a go.
First things first, just read in one of my favorite Paris food blogs, parisbymouth, that David Toutain and his entire staff at Agape Substance have left after a fight with the owner. Without his brilliant cooking, it is certainly not worth going to - and have cancelled our reservation there (made long ago). And, sadly for us, Verjus, a favorite, is undergoing some new year renovations, so that's off our list this trip, too.
But, on day one we had a beautiful lunch at the relatively new Auberge Flora, just a stone's throw away from the apartment. Can't recall what used to be on that corner of the Blvd. Richard Lenoir, but Flora is filling the space beautifully, Sparkling white and silver dishware adorns the walls - and for lunch one has a choice of a prix fixe, a la carte menu, or a two page menu of tapas. I went for the prix fixe, starting with a velvety chestnut soup in which a cloud of Chantilly creme floated, followed by a lovely sea bass, with citrus aromatics and atop a deeply flavored broth with salsify and mushrooms. Amele also had the prix fixe, but chose the beef stew as her main. The meat was tender, and served in its own small casserole over a polenta cake. Meanwhile, Cheryl chose an a la carte plat, several large shrimp, lightly tempura style, surrounding a salad of mache, sesame, and shrimp. And, for dessert we shared a light chocolate mousse, studded with marron glace. I took a bite, then looked down to make notes about our meal - when I looked up it was gone! Will have to be quicker next time....and there definitely will be a next time. Have heard this is a great brunch place....will try to return next week!
Here are the details:
Auberge Flora (it's a hotel, too)
44, boulevard Richard Lenoir, 11th Arr.
+33.1.47.00.52.77
First things first, just read in one of my favorite Paris food blogs, parisbymouth, that David Toutain and his entire staff at Agape Substance have left after a fight with the owner. Without his brilliant cooking, it is certainly not worth going to - and have cancelled our reservation there (made long ago). And, sadly for us, Verjus, a favorite, is undergoing some new year renovations, so that's off our list this trip, too.
But, on day one we had a beautiful lunch at the relatively new Auberge Flora, just a stone's throw away from the apartment. Can't recall what used to be on that corner of the Blvd. Richard Lenoir, but Flora is filling the space beautifully, Sparkling white and silver dishware adorns the walls - and for lunch one has a choice of a prix fixe, a la carte menu, or a two page menu of tapas. I went for the prix fixe, starting with a velvety chestnut soup in which a cloud of Chantilly creme floated, followed by a lovely sea bass, with citrus aromatics and atop a deeply flavored broth with salsify and mushrooms. Amele also had the prix fixe, but chose the beef stew as her main. The meat was tender, and served in its own small casserole over a polenta cake. Meanwhile, Cheryl chose an a la carte plat, several large shrimp, lightly tempura style, surrounding a salad of mache, sesame, and shrimp. And, for dessert we shared a light chocolate mousse, studded with marron glace. I took a bite, then looked down to make notes about our meal - when I looked up it was gone! Will have to be quicker next time....and there definitely will be a next time. Have heard this is a great brunch place....will try to return next week!
Here are the details:
Auberge Flora (it's a hotel, too)
44, boulevard Richard Lenoir, 11th Arr.
+33.1.47.00.52.77
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